Rützou AW13

Susanne Rützou strikes once more with a delicate and really well-structured AW13 collection, she mades it so deep into her research by browsing through her knowledges, from history to contemporary art. This refined taste of minimal and luxury mixed together into a wintery collection made it perfectly to fit what Rützou wants. When I first saw this collection it reminds me of Anastasia and her environment, peoples she met in Paris and in Saint Petersburg, a blending of Frenchness and Russianness. Her tastes in colours and cuts made the whole thing above the common luxurious brands that we are used to see, she is just more quiet about it, her company remains and wants to remain independent. The red found its own place with a glamorous red dress and the trousers are made of this great masculin-concept, mixing an hunting spirit from the field and a luxury touch with the fabric, from the softest wool to a discreet silk.

This is exactly what fashion needs in term of designer, obviously she is not the only one to do that kind of stuff, but it is pretty rare to find a young company to offer that kind of quality and this depth in the background of each collections. As I do like, roughly, the same interests that she has when she does her research for her work, I am really seduced by this house and especially this collection as it tends to describe what is the perfect outfit for a woman, obviously this is my own opinion, and I reckon that it is not shared by everyone.

Raf Simons AW13

Fashion week rhymes with new collection no? Even if it is time for the SS14 to come out, here we are, at the AW13 by Raf Simons unveiled earlier this year, and what collection I wanted to write a bit about it but as I took a too-long break during this summer this post only appears while the SS14 is running on the catwalk. Once again, a simple touch of colour with an elegant and well-cutted outfit in a way where Raf doesn't want the male-silouhette Balenciaga or Slimane-like anymore, he wants it to be more loose , less controlled, more vague and lively. It is almost a full cold-colours mix plus one light colour just to add a little flowery touch on it, yes Simons loves flower. Some of you would recognise what Raf started years ago, before this new century in 1999, Kinetic Youth for his A/W, we find the same cuts, large trousers, same coat-shape. Well it is like Raf Simons has returned from a long way back from over a decade, maybe his wonderful work at Dior where he perfectly fits in what the House required by following the step of Dior and merging their same love for arts brought him back to his arty state (even though he is known to play with all his knowledge in art with his own label), this state is more about what he brought on the catwalk at his beginning.

They are my favourites looks of this collection; I did really love the collaboration R.Simons made for Mr.Porter, it felt a bit more natural now after seeing those pictures, isn't it? For any informations about the Kinetic Youth collection in 1999 and even more I recommend you this wonderful essay about Raf Simons and his whole oeuvre in the fashion world by a famous fashion blogger, Hapsical.

H&M, the identity seeker

Hello again, it is now the first of October, therefore, it is time to get back on the track and we will start this year with a small post about the upcoming collaboration by H&M. I think everyone knows by now, that the French designer, Isabel Marant is the next house with which H&M will release a collaboration over this fall, from November. IM is a famous designer for women, from 16 to 35, she targets young and active women living in a city such as Paris or New-York. This collaboration is a safe choice for H&M, but we cannot expect some new wedge sneakers specially designed for H&M which are the best-seller of the House, as  I.Marant said there are too many copycat on the market, and she is right. 

Through this collaboration, H&M shows once more, that this company wants to be more than just a RTW company with basics stuff that you can find in every single RTW store like Zara, Newlook, Primark, ... by collaborating with luxury house H&M is a step ahead its main rivals by offering something more than a simple RTW company, this is luxury design at a RTW price. Even if the MMM collab' didn't work that well for their customers, compared to this last unknown house for most of them, Isabel Marant is very popular (and also way more affordable than Margiela) therefore I guess that sales will be fine and will find the success that they are looking for. Will Givenchy be the next one? 

EDIT. While I was writing this post, and even after it was ready to be published the menswear collection from this collaboration leaked, so I will publish really soon another post about this collection a bit un-expected as it is the first collection for men from Isabel Marant and I have to say some pieces are quite nice.

Bon vivant & Joyful

[From September] From this Fashion Week I had three or four designers that I have found really attractive and interesting but I will only write about Dolce & Gabbana in this post as they won for me the award of the most cheerfulness with their bright colour with a lot of red reminding us their campaigns full of life (that you can see on this post that a friend wrote). Among those colours we have loose tops & loose trousers, this is a aura of ease given by this new collection by Dolce & Gabbana for this new season S/S 2013.

[From February] As I wanted to publish this post a long time ago (before the FW) the AW13 was presented last weeks therefore I will merge them both into the same post. In this collection, and as I said in one of my post earlier (presenting the AW13 globally), is just the continuity of the SS13, we find the same quirky inspiration, to be honest at the first look I thought it was a reedition of a Tsar's wardrobe. Precious stones, religious drawing, earrings, a colour pattern similar to some painting of the Russian tsarist history, to sum-up, I love it.

Cheers,

Thomas

Find me on - Facebook - Twitter - Bloglovin' -

Womenswear Pre-Fall 2013-14

So there we are, these new collections are for some of them a real surprise and continue on the path they took since the last catwalk (no surprise for McQueen which is for me the best designer of this season), I am also quite happy with Gucci and Louis Vuitton which played on some greats and originals pattern. I have selected 4 looks that I really like, in fact I wanted just 3 of them but I could not decide of which one I had to let down so I put them all. The red is back.

Alexander McQueen :

I have nothing to say about this collection, the whole creation took my breath away, all these patterns are so well-mastered that it is a perfect for me. The first look could remind me the AW12 by Primark but  at 200floors above. The look 1 & 2 are my favourite, maybe because I love that kind of combination  between colours, white/black and red/black.

Balenciaga :

I really enjoy this collection as it brings a casual fresh-air to this market - I would not wear the outfit like that but i would take a piece of each and wear them on their own. 

Givenchy :

Even if I liked this collection, I am a bit disappointed by the fact that Tisci re-build this collection on the last one without many changes. So as I said most of these collections took the same way than the last season but at least some of them, even with the same breath they made it different and on this one I do not think that I look at a different collection.

Gucci :

This collection is awesome, I really encourage you to see the whole collection because I was really torn while I was selecting what look to put online. It is really classic, this is Gucci, but with an Italian touch, these looks 1 & 3 are really what I was waiting from them, this collection is more about Gucci than the last one for me.

Louis Vuitton :

After an impressive SS13 collection, this AW13 just finished the work for this year. Again we find some amazing patterns among this collection and some minimal pieces which balance the whole thing. My favourite looks are the first and the third one, I am really into pattern for this season I do not know why but at least I got some good looks to look at.

Lanvin :

I wanted to show you this Lanvin collection, a bit quirky for me and not really how I see the House, but still quite interesting with the fourth look and the second one, I do not really know how to explain my point of view on these looks but I like them.

During this week my selection for the menswear will be online soon, and more.

Cheers,

Thomas

Find me on - Facebook - Twitter - Bloglovin' -