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Showing posts with label Hedi Slimane. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hedi Slimane. Show all posts

Friday, 18 October 2013

Branding what's new? #1


As we all know Slimane made a noisy come back, from the media to the front row, this bazar was not expected from the famous French designer but he can handle it. He did what a lot of designers did before him at a small range, they invited bloggers and removed people from the front row who were just there by habit and not by interest nor by a worth interest from the House anymore, therefore Slimane did invite more bloggers and more celebrities because they are the main free-advertisement for any brand, who does not want a free sandwich man wearing your own clothes to give envy to people in the media, blog and even in the street?

But Slimane was at the right place at the right time, people were just jealous that this guy, from Dior Homme who re-branded the whole Homme line, was able to reach the new DA position at Yves Saint Laurent. Conservatism peoples, as always, were and still against the total YSL rebranding in Saint Laurent Paris (SLP), Hedi S. wanted to remove all roots from the past, going through the present to reach the future is not easy when you carry a spirit like YSL, you have to bring a new fresh air to the House if you do not want to stay in the shadow of the big man. That is what H.S. did, his ego does not want him to be in the shadow of someone, he wants to be under the spotlight, on the stage, like a rock star, that is what he likes the most, the scene. But he just did what he has to do, by changing the name as a lot of others designers like Balenciaga, Givenchy, and almost all of them, he just updated the brand to be in the modern era of fashion.  The whole design of their marketing tools (bags, hanger, and so on) also changed to be more simple and also very strong, black and white, the Slimane's favourite setup, it is one of the most powerful combination you are very attracted by it by curiosity but also fascination, yes same as Dior Homme.

So to get back to our new branding directive, they want to focus more on social media and their images from customer’s eyes and also by upcoming customers. Therefore PR and strong designers are becoming more social, through Twitter, Facebook, random events in store, this will bring a new relationship with the public, they are now part of the business, they are not only looking at the window, they can be now the model to which everyone looks at.  This strategy is  also dangerous because you cannot control it and by getting free advertisement, it can also drag your reputation down or at least dye it, everyone wants a famous lifestyle blogger wearing your new collection, but what is the point? If you are an Haute-Couture fashion designers, will you seriously think that people will buy your most expensive clothes when they see a £3K dress on a random “famous” blond girl from the internet? They will not, except if you are like Kenzo Paris (for example they are not the only one) if you have a street line you will obviously be able to boost your sales as people will buy this cheap line because it is part of a Haute-Couture house and it is cheap so why would you not buy it? You have to decide what you want to be, do you want to look like a brand which is spreading its products through the crowd just to be seen everywhere? Does it really boost your sales? If you are from the Haute Couture world, do you really need that kind of cheap advertisement to get new customers when you are established since more than 60 years?  Your choice, your reputation, this whole new thing is too young to be blamed nor analysed properly but I am pretty sure that this kind of advertisement will kill the Haute Couture fame and prestige if you embrace it. 

Friday, 5 April 2013

The new hype, bashing Slimane

This image was haunting the Fashion sphere for at least 2 months, "Fashion" critics and "journalists" enjoyed that moment as they could write roughly everything they wanted about Slimane because he did not follow the line, he crossed it. We were used to see each new DA to follow the line of the house with a touch of creativity from their own hand, but no, Slimane put his whole soul in the new collections of Yves Saint Laurent, starting by re-naming the house to Saint Laurent Paris. The way of using the new name properly is still a bit vague so we will be careful about that.

The first collection he did, was inspired from an old collection by YSL in the last 40 years, some fashion critics (yes apparently it is a job but qualifications for that job still gloomy) just wrote how bad Slimane was, no-skill, no-creativity, no-alotofthing. I am not going to link to any post on the internet  but if you have a look on BoF (for example) you will find them, I don't want the author to ask me to remove the truth about their mistakes. So maybe yes, he was inspired by this collection and what? Even if he is not my favourite designer, you can easily see that some collection from others are sometimes inspired from another collection or from the same inspirations (a bit tricky but I meant the same source). So where is the line? Are we restricted as a DA to do what people are expecting from us? Or can we (as a DA) just surprise them? Is it not the job of DA allowing us to judge if it is a good one or not?

In fact I just wanted to share with you four looks that I liked from his last collection, we find once again the rock'n roll and glamour detail, dear to Hedi (yes his degree got in Paris endowed him with this touch).


Cheers,

Thomas
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