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Tuesday 29 April 2014

Thom Browne Fall 2014/15 - The Deepest Fantasy


As the Fall is approaching and the light is fading away, the setting around this double-act play by Thom Browne was perfect. Separated into two distinct sides; the Animal Kingdom and the Nobles; the hunter and the hunted. This play was a disturbing parade. The first part was the animals in multiple shades of grey, walking around the squared-park, all grey. The garments were all messy with topstitched seams, to reflect the wild and raw nature of the animals in front of the spectators. The prey was being watched alongside a delightful Prologue by Alexandre Desplat, carrying us away to a wonderland emphasised by the elephant’s head with a well-known similarity. The head of Cthulhu, who is a "source of constant anxiety for mankind at a subconscious level", here, genuinely transplanted into the animals’s mind.

The second part; the Nobles, blowing hard with their magnificent outfits, on a military rhythm along the Rendez Vous by the same compositor as the prologue. Like a milice showing off their weapons and armour before running after their prey. Bearing an imposing silhouette, with a oak-leaves camouflage covering the faces and almost all of the outfits, intertwining a royal tapestry and the colours of Alice in her wonderland. This surreal catwalk, is a great representation of the mankind's mind. The perception of our surroundings is always a matter of apprehension, here the dominance claimed by the hunters are nothing less than a mask, a mask of fantasy, a bleak fantasy of superciliousness.

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