Raf Simons x Sterling Ruby

For this fall 2014, Raf Simons and Sterling Ruby decided to collaborate on this AW14 collection and when two artists intertwined what is the result? A wonderful collection out of this world, verging on fantasy. When browsing the collection online I discovered the work of Julia Noni and the stylist Tobias Frericks for the GQ Style Germany and I have to say, they nailed it. Thanks to the aura of Fernando Cabral, the model, the settings where reunited to gather a feeling of dizziness. The garments themselves are the results of splashing colours on a neutral piece plus the adds by a delicate couturier like Raf. The mix is a success and reveals a rare way of thinking in the fashion world nowadays.
I had the opportunity to try on the collection myself, and this collection is even better in reality. The high quality of the fabrics used by Simons has a unique sensation and makes you feel his universe through one piece. Few pieces are, despite the vision of this collaboration, a bit off topic with a very basic design without any uniqueness, but overall this is one of my favourite collection so far.

Winter is coming

Red Gauntlets by Dolce & Gabbana

Take a deep breath, and there you are, back in the XIIIth century. A cold winter is coming, one of these, where you have to wear enough layers in order to survive, to lead on the war you started centuries ago. Winter is coming and this garrison dressed by Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana, is not here to boast. Bearing their believes on them, they walk straight forward to show their persistence and determination. Inspired by this settings, where the Church was the most famous Department Store, the orders were only their confederates, Dolce & Gabbana made this holy spirit alive once again. Saints and Knights on a delicious architecture are, here, designed like stained glass, beaming their desires of conquest. Few oversize sweaters along the well fitted pieces, describe perfectly this Italian sense of perfection in the man's silhouette. This dark display comes across what we saw in their previous (recent) collections, only the snow were missing to dive the assembly into the deepest era of mankind, Middle Age. Dark colours are well chosen, the luxurious green is only here to remind to the people the ostentation life of powerful men at that time, tainted by this crimson red, as a shadow of sins covering their lost souls. The theme along the show can be seen as ironic, a light refreshment from the court, brought by trouvères and troubadours, as a parade to show off the power of this garrison.
Dolce & Gabbana mastered this collection through details, to soften the collection, they designed some fabulous accessories, especially gloves and slippers. This second party of the show take the audience back down to its chair, cosy and safe, to imitate the lords, hidden in their castles, next to the fire to keep them alive.

Style 1 // Style 2 // Style 3

Thom Browne Fall 2014/15 - The Deepest Fantasy

As the Fall is approaching and the light is fading away, the setting around this double-act play by Thom Browne was perfect. Separated into two distinct sides; the Animal Kingdom and the Nobles; the hunter and the hunted. This play was a disturbing parade. The first part was the animals in multiple shades of grey, walking around the squared-park, all grey. The garments were all messy with topstitched seams, to reflect the wild and raw nature of the animals in front of the spectators. The prey was being watched alongside a delightful Prologue by Alexandre Desplat, carrying us away to a wonderland emphasised by the elephant’s head with a well-known similarity. The head of Cthulhu, who is a "source of constant anxiety for mankind at a subconscious level", here, genuinely transplanted into the animals’s mind.

The second part; the Nobles, blowing hard with their magnificent outfits, on a military rhythm along the Rendez Vous by the same compositor as the prologue. Like a milice showing off their weapons and armour before running after their prey. Bearing an imposing silhouette, with a oak-leaves camouflage covering the faces and almost all of the outfits, intertwining a royal tapestry and the colours of Alice in her wonderland. This surreal catwalk, is a great representation of the mankind's mind. The perception of our surroundings is always a matter of apprehension, here the dominance claimed by the hunters are nothing less than a mask, a mask of fantasy, a bleak fantasy of superciliousness.